Salicylic Acid

Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid, or BHA, originally derived from willow bark, although nearly all cosmetic salicylic acid today is synthesized. Its key difference from water-soluble AHAs such as glycolic and lactic acid is its oil solubility. It can move through the oily environment of the pore rather than working only at the surface.

Because it is oil-soluble, salicylic acid can move into sebum-filled pores, where it loosens the bonds between dead skin cells and helps break down the oil-and-debris plug that forms blackheads and closed comedones. It also has documented anti-inflammatory activity, which is why it can be useful for inflamed acne as well as congestion. Most over-the-counter formulas use concentrations of 0.5-2%.

For oily, combination and acne-prone skin, especially when the main concern is blackheads and congested pores rather than only active inflammatory breakouts.

It can dry the skin, especially at higher concentrations or with frequent use. Pair it with humectants such as hyaluronic acid and a suitable moisturizer to support the barrier.